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After far, far too long in the murky shadows of uncooldom, archetypal sherries like this big, bold and beautiful Bristol Cream are coming out of the closet. Yes, loud and proud, this is an out-and-out cream sherry: that's right, a sherry on the sweet side of medium, get over it fella. Okay, we might be over-egging it a little, but this is a wine in need of serious re-evaluation. It's way more complex than you might suspect or imagine, with layers of poached apples, treacle, raisin and hints of oak and Christmas spice - and chuck it in a glass of crushed ice with a slice or two of orange and it's unrecognisable. It might even be cool, and it's certainly delicious. Go on, we dare you.